Tucked away among the renowned Margaret River vineyards are some spectacular breweries – and plenty more
Lee McDonald16-Nov-2014In Australia, Margaret River is synonymous with wine. According to the Margaret River Wine Association, despite only producing around 3% of Australia’s wine grapes, Margaret River wine producers account for 20% of today’s premium wine market and are represented on 25% of all wine lists in Australian restaurants.With over 80 cellar doors, the region is a must-see for wine lovers visiting Western Australia. Personally, I don’t care much for wine, but I am a frequent visitor to the region. Why? It is because it is also about beer.About a three-hour drive south of Perth, the Margaret River region is a beautiful pocket of Australian countryside bordered to the north, south and west by breathtaking beaches. Whereas much of Western Australia is harsh and hot, the south-west has a mild Mediterranean climate. This helps flora and fauna flourish, and so the countryside is flush with rolling green farmlands and vineyards that are interspersed with stunning tall timber forest areas.I live in Perth and head down to the region around three times a year. The homegrown quality food and experiences, the proximity to the city, the green landscapes, the laidback and quietly proud locals, and of course the delicious beer, are what keep me coming back again and again.The Bootleg Brewery: serious about the beer and nothing else•Lee McDonaldThe focus on quality, and a quality experience, certainly extends to the brewers of the Margaret River region. The region’s craft breweries are scattered from Yallingup and Dunsborough in the north through to Cowaramup and Margaret River itself. Most have extensive and exquisite modern Australian pub-style food available for your consumption, most have playgrounds and grassed areas for the little ones to play to their heart’s content, and all have marvellous Australian craft beer.There are a little under a dozen breweries in the region. My personal favourites are the Cowaramup Brewing Company, the Bootleg Brewery and the Eagle Bay Brewing Company. All are set on farmland, but all have their own distinct qualities.The Cowaramup Brewing Company is where I head when I want somewhere quiet and serene. The veranda and beer garden look out over the small area of farmland surrounding the brewery, making for a quaint and family-friendly atmosphere.Smaller than many of the breweries in the region, Cowaramup focuses on doing the basics well, be it with the food (pizzas, burgers, fish and chips) or its beer. The pilsner is a nice and crisp lager and is my personal favourite brew there.Trip plannerAFP
How to get there: It is best to drive down. Head south down the Kwinana Freeway from Perth and just keep going. The trip is fairly well signposted. Once you hit Bunbury, the distance to most of the main towns of the Margaret River region (Busselton, Dunsborough. Margaret River, and Augusta) will appear on signs. My favourite stretch is between Bunbury and Busselton where the forest areas become more prevalent and the smell of the trees wafts through the car.
You will also need a car to get around once you are in the Margaret River region as it stretches approximately 90km as the crow flies from Busselton in the north to Augusta in the south.
Weather: Perth’s World Cup fixtures are in late February and early March. The weather in Margaret River is milder than Perth’s and most days at that time of year will be mainly sunny, with temperatures in the mid-20s Celsius.
Where to stay: As you would expect from any tourist destination the accommodation in the region comes in all shapes and sizes. There are resorts, hotels, motels, caravan parks, backpacker lodges, camping sites, and holiday houses available to rent.
Can’t do without some of the creature comforts of city life? Stay in Busselton. Looking for something that is quieter and family-friendly while still being close to the beach? Dunsborough or Yallingup will be more your cup of tea (or glass of beer). If you want more of a country-town feel where you can mingle with the locals, Margaret River town should be where you head. If your heart desires your own little piece of Australian serenity for a few days, then you should hunt down one of the several farm stays in the area. The Augusta Margaret River Tourism Association site is the best place to go for all options.
The rustic Bootleg Brewery is one of the more established breweries in the region and has more of a party atmosphere than many of the other breweries. I like coming here on weekends or on public holidays because it is quite common for tour groups to stop at Bootleg, helping create a lively and buoyant mood.Classic beer garden benches line the lawn area and overlook the property’s lake. The idyllic setting, combined with the fun of games like giant Jenga, certainly contribute to Bootleg’s festive vibe.With a tagline of “An oasis of beer in a desert of wine”, it is quite apparent that the operators don’t take themselves too seriously. However, one thing Bootleg does take seriously is brewing their award-winning beers. They are not afraid to do something a little different, and it is common for them to have fruit-infused beers or variants like a Black IPA. On my last visit to Bootleg, I tried the “Speakeasy” IPA (Indian Pale Ale) and I’ll certainly be having it again the next time I greet the bartender there.The jewel in the crown of Margaret River Region breweries has to be Eagle Bay Brewing Company. In my humble opinion, the beer and food are simply the best of the breweries in the region. My personal favourite beers are the malty Vienna Lager and the just-hoppy-enough Pale Ale. Also, the wood-fired pizzas are great, with a focus on local ingredients, and the view is to die for.My favourite thing to do in the Margaret River region is to book a table on the veranda or grassed areas at Eagle Bay Brewing Company, order a Vienna Lager and get lost in the view that extends across acres of hilly farmland property all the way to the Indian Ocean in the distance. It is a beer lover’s happy place.Surfers at Cowaramup Bay•AFPOnce you’ve had your fill of quality craft beer and/or exquisite food from the breweries, and maybe had a sleep, there are also plenty of other things to do and see in the Margaret River Region.Most of the breweries and wineries are only open during the day and it is prudent to book a table in advance. Many of them get quite busy, especially around lunchtime on the weekends and holidays.Beaches
I like Meelup Beach for swimming. Located in between Dunsborough and Eagle Bay, it is a beach where trees and bush line the edge of the white sand, and it isn’t too far from the car to the water – which is crystal blue in summer. There are also good swimming beaches at Bunker Bay and Gnarabup.More bodacious beach-goers will know that Margaret River is also regarded as one of the best surfing regions in the state. Some of the best spots include Yallingup Beach, Surfer’s Point in Margaret River, and for those who are willing to go off the beaten track a bit and have a four-wheel-drive, there is Three Bears.Activities
Eco-tourism is an essential component of the Margaret River region’s identity. It is all part of the important environmental and sustainability focus that all locals to the region seem to have. Examples include the whale-watching and cave tour companies that operate out of Margaret River town. It is also worth a drive and/or walk through Boranup Karri Forest, which is part of Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, and provides a unique experience, with giant trees being situated close to the coast.Kangaroos in a vineyard in the Leeuwin Estate•Getty ImagesWhen I’m in the region I’m always sure to take my more treat-focused friends to the factories of the Margaret River Chocolate Company as well as the nearby Margaret River Dairy Company. The free samples always delight my taste buds in such a way that I take home way more treats than I originally intend. There is also Simmo’s Ice Creamery in Dunsborough, which is always a hit, and not just with the kids.The people
For the most part, when you head to the Margaret River region and do the touristy things you will, surprisingly enough, come across other tourists. Many of those will be tourists from Perth down for the weekend (like me!). But overseas and interstate tourists are always welcomed with open arms by the locals.Some friends who live in the region once offered a few nights’ free accommodation at their house to a couple of German tourists they met when they found out the travellers were sleeping in an old car. Six months later, the tourists were still living there, and it wasn’t because the Germans were taking them for a ride. It was because these people wanted their visitors to stay and have a quality experience exploring all the region has to offer to their heart’s content. The locals love quality and they love Margaret River. They want you to love it too.